[Mixtape] Trucking on the Karakoram Highway

Trucking across the Karakoram Highway from Pakistan to China while dressed as a guy is my ultimate bucket list item. I couldn’t think of a proper opening so I decided to drop this random bit of lore instead. It’s actually the result of a vivid dream I had years ago after binging too many Marco Polo episodes but I’m sure Highway (2014) and Motorcycle Girl (2018) have a big part to play in this too. 

As soon as my head hit the pillow that night, I was transported into some kind of a vehicle traveling at high speed across an endless stretch of paved gravel like Oscar Isaac in Moon Knight. The logistics automatically sorted themselves out as I was dreaming because I’m anxious even in my sleep lol. See, if I’m traveling solo as a woman in South Asia, there’s no way I’d go there as myself (female-presenting) for very obvious reasons. So in my dream, I look down and see that I’m wearing a crisp ironed kurta with a plaid gamccha thrown over my shoulder. I have uncle shades on as well as a thick mustache for added mardaani (and also because I’ve always wanted to twirl a mustache while lost in thought). 

And my vehicle — oh, she’s a dream.

It’s just me, my embellished truck, and a packed playlist hurtling down what many consider the 8th wonder of the world. The sky is a crisp, endless blue and we casually pass by ancient snow-capped friends like K2 (8610m – did you know K2 is short for Karakoram 2?), Nanga Parbat (8126m) and Rakaposhi (7788m). My journey will take me through some of the world’s most breathtaking mountain ranges — the Himalayas, Karakoram, and Hindu Kush. As part of the Ancient Silk Road, driving the Karakoram Highway is to follow the ancient footsteps of merchants, robbers, princes, paupers, pilgrims and traders who shaped the trajectories of Eastern and Western civilization.

Every now and then I’ll listen to my stomach and stop by roadside dhabas to get chhole bhatture or a chapshurro. Perhaps I’ll stop by a modern version of a caravanserai like Sost Bazaar with the other truckers for some well-needed refueling and roadside gupshup. In the evenings, I’ll park by the side of the road and lie down under the vast open sky.


And this will happen inshAllah. I know it will because I’ve already got a Spotify playlist ready, which you can access here. While selecting songs, I kept vast empty vistas, dusty roadsides and towering mountains in mind and I wanted the playlist to capture the thrill of driving for miles across an ancient tradeway with absolutely no inhibitions or fears. You might also find some nostalgic family road trip favourites to serve as faithful companions throughout the journey. There’s a slight Sufi bent too because what’s the use of a lengthy voyage if I don’t return from it a changed (wo)man, right?

Here are some of my favourites from the playlist:

Bismil – Haider OST

To get our journey through these expansive and ancient landscapes started

Tinak Dhin – Ali Sethi, Ali Hamza, Waqar Ehsin for Coke Studio Pakistan

To celebrate our innate sense of fun and wonder

Koi Aanay Wala Hai – Strings

To affirm life as we speed under the vast open sky

Yunhi Chala Chal – Swades OST

To honour the multiple pathways that will turn up for us in life no matter where we go, and to keep on going

Jhoolay Laal – Sajjad Ali and Fariha Pervez for Coke Studio Pakistan

To contemplate quietly under a blanket of stars

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